How to Spot a Fake or Reproduction Cartridge

Let's be honest — reproduction carts have gotten really good. The days of spotting a fake because the label looked like it was printed on a home inkjet are mostly over. Some of these boards are close enough that even experienced collectors get fooled, especially when buying online where you can't hold the cartridge in your hands before paying for it.

The good news is that no matter how good a repro gets, it almost always slips up somewhere. Fakes are built to look right at a glance, not to survive a close inspection. This guide walks through what to check before you buy, broken down by console, plus a quick section on what to look for if you ever crack a cart open. None of this requires special equipment — just your eyes, a good light, and a few minutes of patience.

General Red Flags (Any Console)

Before you even get to console-specific details, a few things should raise an eyebrow no matter what you're shopping for:

NES

NES carts are one of the easier systems to fake convincingly, mostly because the shells and screws changed over the console's lifespan, which gives you a few different things to cross-check.

• Screws: Early NES carts (roughly 1985-87) used 5 metal screws. Later production (1988 onward) switched to 3 screws with plastic mounting tabs, and the shell will usually say "REV-A" molded into the plastic near the label. If a cart's screw count and shell revision don't match what's expected for that game's release window, that's a flag.
• Label quality: Authentic labels have a matte-to-semi-gloss finish, sharp text, and consistent color. Repro labels often lean glossy/sticker-like, or the artwork looks slightly soft or pixelated when you look closely, especially around logos and text.
• Shell texture and color: Original NES shells have a very specific gray and a slight texture to the plastic. Repro shells can feel a little too smooth, too shiny, or the gray is just a bit off — hard to describe until you've handled a few real ones side by side.
• Weight: This one's subtle, but original carts have real heft from the internal board and shielding. A cart that feels unusually light for its size is worth a second look.

SNES

SNES is probably the console we get asked about the most, because the three most reproduced games on the system — EarthBound, Chrono Trigger, and Zelda: A Link to the Past — are also some of the most requested games in the store.

• The stamped code on the back label: Authentic SNES back labels have a small 2-digit factory code physically embossed (stamped in) near the barcode, not printed. Run your fingernail over it — you should feel it. Repros almost always print this instead of stamping it, or leave it off entirely.
• Molded codes inside the shell: If you can safely check (or the seller has interior photos), authentic SNES shells have alphanumeric codes molded right into the plastic on the inside of the case, like "E-27" or "B-43." Repro shells are typically blank inside.
• Security screws: SNES carts use a proprietary Gamebit screw, not a standard Phillips head. If you see a regular Phillips or flathead screw holding the cart together, that's an immediate red flag. On genuine Gamebit screws the head is cleanly formed; some repros use a screw that looks "stamped out" or slightly jagged instead of perfectly round.
• Label gloss and print sharpness: Same idea as NES — real labels are crisp with accurate color; repro labels can look a little too shiny or slightly blurry under close inspection.

Nintendo 64

N64 carts are a little more forgiving to check because the shells are large and the security screw is distinctive, but the plastic itself is where repros most often give themselves away.

• Shell texture: Genuine N64 shells are gray with a slightly grainy, matte texture. Repro shells tend to be too smooth or glossy, and the plastic can feel more brittle than the original.
• Security screw: N64 uses a 3.8mm tri-wing screw. If it's been swapped for a standard screw, someone's opened it — not necessarily a dealbreaker on its own, but worth asking why.
• Label details: Check the printed text and logo sharpness closely, same as the other consoles — soft or slightly misaligned printing is common on repro labels.
• Parting lines: Original molds leave very specific, consistent seam lines where the two shell halves meet. It sounds minor, but these lines are genuinely hard for counterfeiters to replicate exactly, and mismatched or oddly placed seams can be a tell if you're comparing to a known-authentic cart.

Sega Genesis

Genesis has one of the more reliable tells of any console, if you're willing to look inside: the ROM chip type.

• Mask ROM vs. EPROM: Authentic Genesis games use Mask ROM chips, which are typically labeled with the game's title or "SEGA" printed right on the chip. Repro carts commonly use EPROM chips instead, which have a small visible window (sometimes covered by a sticker) used to UV-erase and reprogram the chip. If you see that window, or a sticker suspiciously placed where a window would be, it's a repro.
• Date codes: Chips are printed with a manufacture date. That date should reasonably precede the game's release — usually by a few months to about a year and a half. A chip dated after the game came out, or from a chip family that didn't exist yet at release, is about as definitive a tell as you'll find.
• The EA yellow clip: Genuine Electronic Arts-published Genesis games shipped with a small yellow plastic clip on the cartridge shell. It's a small detail, but it's one repro makers frequently skip on EA titles.
• Label and shell quality: Same general rules apply — check print sharpness and shell texture against a known-good example if you can.

Game Boy / Game Boy Advance

This is the one category where a single detail can basically settle the question for you: the battery.

• The Pokémon battery test: Ruby and Sapphire are the only mainline GBA Pokémon games that use an internal save battery (for the real-time clock feature). If you're looking at a FireRed, LeafGreen, or Emerald cart and it has a battery inside, that's a major red flag — those games save to flash memory and were never built with one.
• How the battery is attached: On carts that are supposed to have one, it should be soldered directly to the board. A battery that's glued or taped in is a strong sign of tampering or a repro build.
• Label and shell quality: Same checks as always — sharp, accurate printing and correct shell color/texture. GBA cartridge plastic has a specific translucent or solid finish depending on the release; anything that looks noticeably different from other carts of that same color run is worth a second look.
• Screws: GBA carts use a small tri-wing security screw. A swapped-in standard screw suggests the cart's been opened before.

Board-Level Inspection (If You Open It Up)

If a cart passes the checks above but you still want to be certain — or you're dealing with something expensive enough to justify it — opening the shell is the last word. A couple notes before you do:

A simple rule of thumb from repair and preservation communities: for anything under about $50, a visual and functional check is plenty. Between $50 and $150, it's worth popping the shell to check the chip and board if you have any doubts. Above $150, especially for something like an EarthBound or a Chrono Trigger, compare against a verified authentic example if you possibly can before you commit.

Buying With Confidence

None of this is meant to make you paranoid about every cartridge you come across — the vast majority of what's out there is exactly what it claims to be. But a few extra minutes checking screws, labels, and pricing before you buy can save you from a costly mistake, especially on the games that get targeted most often.